THE PLACE
In this challenging economy, surveys show that hamburger places are thriving, as customers want to go out for a meal but feel compelled to economize. The Gate House offers the best of both worlds — high-end hamburgers, pizza and "small plates" without the tacky Formica tables. In fact, this is not just "going out," it's dining out. Located in the former Salena's at the Village Gate, the Gate House is a project of chef and owner Kristen Flores-Fratto, formerly of Pomodoro and Brio restaurants. Under her direction, the ordinary has become extraordinary.
THE FOOD
The goal of the Gate House is to provide an affordable, casual dining experience with meals that use quality ingredients. This means that you can order your burger with Kobe beef if you so desire. It means that the tomatoes in your pizza sauce are San Marzano's finest. And it means that the flour in the pizza dough is Tipo 00 Italian flour, the softest and most refined flour available, typically used in authentic Neapolitan pizza for the crunch it yields.
Navigating the menu gives you a little local history and culture. Each salad is named for a park, burgers share names with local celebs and public figures and the pizzas get landmark status. Ordering took a while, as my companions fought over which burger they would choose. Meanwhile we ordered a Cobb's Hill ($8.25), a local take on, you guessed it, Cobb salad. Our server was kind enough to bring four side plates and add an extra cheese-filled bread stick for us to share. The dressing was added lightly and the toppings were classic, but we found the greens to be a bit past prime, with some dark leaves detracting from the freshness.
The rest of the meal redeemed the entire evening with three of the delicious burgers. My companions chose the (Teddy) Geiger ($9.50) with sautéed jalapenos, sliced avocado and Pepper Jack cheese; the (Brother) Wease ($10) with smoked gouda, fried onions and horseradish steak sauce; and the (Rochester Mayor Robert) Duffy with barbecue sauce, apple smoked bacon and cheddar cheese. The burgers were all juicy and grilled exactly as ordered. The toppings were well-chosen, giving each burger a distinct individual flavor. Among the side choices are the must-have thin-cut garlic rosemary french fries. Another companion ordered the black and tan onion rings, in a tasty beer batter that stuck tightly to each ring and didn't allow the onion to make a slithering escape.
I selected the Liberty Pole Pizza ($11.50), topped with tomato sauce, prosciutto, artichokes and smoked mozzarella. There are great debates waging over the characteristics of the perfect wood-fired crusts, but it comes down to personal preference. For my tastes, this was close to perfect, with a good amount of crisp, a bit of chewiness and a hint of char for smokiness. I doled out slices to each of my companions, and still had plenty for a meal for myself. We agreed that the prosciutto and smoked mozzarella were enhanced by the smokiness from the wood.
We shared two wonderful desserts, a flourless chocolate tart that came warm and topped with ice cream that melted sensuously, dripping into a pool of Nutella sauce that surrounded it. We also had the house-made Tiramisu that arrived in a martini glass, with the espresso-soaked ladyfingers lining the wall of the glass. Not too sweet and a great end to a not too expensive evening.
THE DRINKS
Beer and wine are served. The wine list features casual, food-friendly wines, with some eclectic choices mixed in with standards. The list is California and Eurocentric with just one Finger Lakes choice.
THE ATMOSPHERE
The transformation in the space is remarkable and complete without a hint of the former space of Salena's, which moved to another spot in Village Gate.
The space is open with natural accents including tiled columns and a slatted wood canopy. There is a small patio that can be quieter than the inside space. The open kitchen is busy, yet remarkably organized and immaculate.
