(Credit: Jay Capers)
A place that specializes in “slow smokin’ grilled and pit styles from legendary BBQ regions across America” was just where I wanted to go to recover from the holiday rush. Off to Sticky Lips Pit BBQ for some comfort food with my friend Mary.
The mood
It always seems to be bustling here, which is apropos of the 1940s- and ’50s-era atmosphere, featuring neon, old metal signs, framed newspaper clippings, red-and-white checkered tablecloths and a soundtrack of blues and big-band music. The servers are friendly and highly attentive.
Actually, my favorite part of the restaurant is outside, where a board rotates humorous messages. My all-time favorite was an announcement that Rochester had a boat for sale (remember the fast ferry?) and to call the provided phone number for information.
The food
It’s about as American as you can get: Uncle Frank’s State Fair Chicken, Texas Beef Brisket, New York Strip Steak, Martha’s Homemade Desserts — you get the idea.
I made the colossal mistake of skipping breakfast and then scarfing down a Wendy’s cheeseburger a couple of hours before heading to Sticky Lips. So unfortunately, I wasn’t in the mood for a big lunch, which stinks when you’re staring at a five-page menu packed with savory selections. I settled for the Sides Plate ($7.95) — any four sides with a piece of honey-glazed cornbread. I chose mashed potatoes with gravy, mac and cheese, ratatouille and a side salad. (Sides on their own are $1.89; extra cornbread is 99 cents.) The mashed potatoes were by far my favorite — thick and creamy and served with a heavy gravy.
Mary ordered the Original BBQ Pork Sandwich with two sides ($8.50). The sandwiches are piled high with “pulled, hand-rubbed pork butts” and served with garlic dill pickles and either spicy vinegar sauce or, as Mary chose, the All-American BBQ sauce. Mary had only been to Sticky Lips for dinner, usually eaten with a beer, but she thought the pork was “just as smoky and tasty without the influence of alcohol.” For her sides, she tried the new Chorizo Cheddar Grits (spicy goodness!) and Sweet Potato Fries, which were crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.
The drinks
Fountain drinks (with free refills) are $1.89. Bottled sodas (orange cream, birch beer) are $2.49, and domestic and imported beer ranges from $3 to $5. There’s also coffee, tea and water. I had chocolate milk ($1.50), and Mary had iced tea ($1.89).
The damage: $25
Next time … I’ll bring a bigger appetite. And I’ll pig out on a Black Bean and Pork Sandwich with two sides ($8.95) — mashed potatoes with gravy and cornbread.
