On par for summer dining

The Grill & Tap Room at Shadow Lake in Penfield is a great place to dine on a summer night.

Karen Deyle

Special to Metromix
June 25, 2009

On par for summer dining
The Steak Sandwich is served on focaccia. (Credit: Matt Wittmeyer)

The place
As the last notes of the Rochester International Jazz Festival fade, golf takes center stage this week as the LPGA comes to town. After a day of being a spectator, why not carry the golf atmosphere into the evening with dinner at The Grill & Tap Room at Shadow Lake. You can relax on the deck, or in the formal dining room overlooking a lake that was once a working stone quarry. We did both, deciding to move in from the deck as the weather cooled.

The Food
Diners can choose from two different menus, a casual deck menu of burgers, wraps and finger food baskets or a more formal appetizer and entrée menu. We started our dinner on the deck, but the chilly evening moved us indoors. As it worked, we ended up ordering several items from each menu.

To begin we shared the chêvre croquette salad from the dining menu ($8.95). A large round of goat cheese was crusted with bread crumbs and quickly fried. It was served atop a bed of greens highlighted by lacy friseé lettuce. The warm cheese and tart dressing made for a bright blend of flavors.

One companion ordered from the burger menu — with 18 selections of different toppings, each representing a hole. The 13th hole ($9.95) was pepper crusted with a caramelized onion topping. Tender pink in the center, with a crisp and spicy crusting, it was a flavorful combo of heat and sweet. The fries that accompanied it were lightly battered then fried for a crisp outside.

I chose the French dip sandwich ($9.95), also from the lunch/deck menu. A generous portion of Red Osier roast beef was topped with provolone cheese and sautéed onions and served on a sliced baguette. This also came with fries and a side of jus for dipping.

From the dinner menu, one companion chose the pork chop with cherry and Boursin sauce ($19.95). A large center cut pork chop, seasoned with a barbecue rub and grilled until there was just a rosy hint remaining at the center. It was served with a not too sweet cherry Boursin sauce and a side of mashed potatoes and lightly steamed mixed veggies. This was one of our favorite choices.

The final choice was the one of the most expensive, and yet the most puzzling. The seafood stew ($23.95) was described as a San Francisco-style seafood bouillabaisse in a tomato fennel broth. The dish offered an assortment of seafood including tender clams, scallops, and shrimp along with several portions of fish. But it was overpowered by a sauce that was neither broth, nor fennel-laced. Instead, the bright orange sauce was as thick as pasta sauce and lacked the layered flavors to enhance delicate seafood.

By the time our meal was done, the sun had set and the fountain in the lake was illuminated with a soft glow. We browsed the lovely dessert tray brought to our table, but declined.

The drinks
The bar, or 19th hole, is comfortable and often crowded during golf hours right up until sunset. There are suitably casual wines by the glass at $7 or so. The bottle list is diverse with nearly 50 fairly priced solid choices.

The atmosphere
The nicest feature of Shadow Lake is the lake itself. A former quarry, it is deep and tranquil. A fountain in the center keeps the water moving and clear. Trees provide protection, and the occasional blue heron drops in to fish.

Inside, the décor is not overwhelmingly golf-themed. Instead, the natural setting and quarry stone elements are blended, using stone and earth tones with clean lines and warm mission-style lantern lighting.

The artwork and photos carry the golf motif through the halls and bar.

The service
Our server accommodated our move from the deck to the dining room with good nature. Our meals arrived somewhat haphazardly, perhaps because of the dual menu order.

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