Review: Tavern 58

The blackened Ahi tuna. (Credit: Carlos Ortiz)

THE PLACE 
Downtown has a new dining venue just inside the inner loop on University Avenue. Tavern 58 moved into the spot at Gibbs and University vacated by Los Andes. This is a welcome addition for theatergoers, and owners Brian and Nick Dwyer have set their hours and promotions with just that in mind. Recent Jersey Boys packages were a great success, and similar plans are in the works for next month's run of Rent. The restaurant opens early for pre-show meals and stays open late for those who prefer an after-show repast.

FOOD
Chef Mike Schnupp's menu features steaks, chops and seafood in starring roles, with a supporting cast of sandwiches, burgers, wings and appetizers. Three of us started our meal on a seafood note. We ordered the crab ale and cheese fondue with grilled crostini ($10) to share.

The cup of fondue was silky and creamy with feathery bits of crab and a subtle ale bite. The seasoned crostini were perfect for spooning up the dip. One companion spied the Chef's soup ($6), a baked oyster bisque. The soup was a creamy taupe, with a contrasting sprinkle of white bleu cheese crumbles.

Stirred into the delicate base were several large oysters perfectly and lightly cooked. I sampled just enough to wish I had ordered the soup as well.

The menu features at least four steak entrees, so I let both companions choose a different presentation. One chose the Gaucho steak ($29) and the other chose the Strip Steak with blue cheese au gratin potatoes ($32).

The Gaucho was a grilled bone-in ribeye steak served atop a mound of chipotle-spiked cheddar mashed potatoes and a hash of vegetables on the side. All were topped with a sprinkle of crispy tortilla curls.

The strip steak was similarly presented, with a base of creamy cheesy gratin potatoes with a sharp blue cheese essence. A ladle of mushroom sauce and a heap of onion tumbleweed shreds topped this presentation. Both steaks were delicious.

We all wished that plating had showed more restraint and definition, which would allow each flavor to shine, rather than piling flavor upon flavor.)

I chose the pan-seared sea scallops ($19). These looked more like blackened scallops, probably because of the aromatic spices, which can char easily. Although dark on the outside, they were tender and flavorful inside. These came atop a sweet potato purée with three curried vegetable fritters crowning the center of the dish, all drizzled with a light pecan butter sauce.

For dessert we shared a portion of the Kahlua chocolate chip bread pudding ($6). The warm slice was cooled by a side of candied pecan ice cream.

THE DRINKS
There is a spacious bar at the entry. Tall cherry wood shelves feature multiple niches full of bottles and decanters. The wine list features diverse offerings. The moderate-priced wines are pretty good value, and the higher-end wines are actually a better value with less markup. Tavern 58 also features a great selection of single malt scotches.

THE ATMOSPHERE
The layout has not changed but the décor has been refreshed. The walls in the first dining room are sage with cherry trim and showcase photos of Rochester landmarks. Step through wrought iron gates to the back room, where a large mural of highlights of the Rochester skyline covers one wall and a three-armed streetlight casts a warm glow.