Sweet assignment

Although getting the scoop at Abbott's is tougher than it seems

Emily Shearing

Metromix
July 1, 2009

Sweet assignment
Emily Shearing serves one of her "patient customers" during a shift at Abbott’s original location in Charlotte. (Credit: Katharine Sidelnik)

If you're heading down to Charlotte to walk the pier or catch some rays, it's pretty much a given that you're going to stop at Abbott's original location at Lake and Beach avenues. During the hottest summer days, the line outside is at least 10 people deep — per open window.

A mainstay in Rochester since 1926, Abbott's is associated with many childhood memories. As kids we insisted on having the classic custard in a cone with rainbow sprinkles. And of course, it would melt down our arms and somehow find its way into our hair. Now the cold confection is inspiring future memories up and down the East coast, thanks to locations in Massachusetts, Florida and even Louisiana.

During the annual Rochester Harbor and Carousel Festival in Charlotte, the Abbott's stand is busier than usual, according to employee Crystal Gerken, 25, of Kendall, Orleans County.

I got the chance to work a shift the Sunday afternoon of Harbor Fest. But before I could man the front lines, I had to attend frozen-custard boot camp. Well, maybe it wasn't that intense, but the training got me in shape to scoop (almost) like a pro.

Turns out, the scoop is no random glob of creamy deliciousness. It takes practice to perfect the size and — believe it or not — the shape. "On my first day, I was training on scooping for, like, four hours," said Abbott's employee Nikole Cubiotti, 20, of Greece.

The goal is to top a cone or dish with a ball-shaped scoop of custard. I was amazed at how quick most of the employees could achieve the perfect scoop. I stood over the lime sherbet and scooped the messiest cones ever, getting sherbet all over my hands, on the ice cream scoop and down the side of the cone.

But finally, after my thumb was sore, progress. "That's actually a really good scoop," Gerken said to me after a half-hour of scooping. After learning the register, which has a button for everything from sundaes to Gummi Bears, and cashing out some patient customers, the Abbott's team deemed me ready for my big debut.

Because of Harbor Fest, I was hoping for a hectic and fun afternoon. But as soon as I started working, a light rain started to fall. That didn't deter anyone the first half-hour I worked, which was so busy it felt like five minutes. Gerken said the previous night they were scooping late into the night.

As the rain fell harder and harder, the beach parking lots quickly emptied and the crowd died down. A few brave frozen custard-loving souls strolled up with umbrellas, but it was clear my Abbott's shift had come to an end.

But even more unexpected than a slow Sunday afternoon at Abbott's was that I didn't eat one scoop. But most of the employees say they never get sick of the sweet treat.

"We eat spoonfuls all the time," said Cubiotti.

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